FAQ Centre

Please follow the steps below to prepare and run your car.
Most beginners do not regularly check the nuts and bolts for tightness, especially the engine bolts. Go over the whole car to make sure every nut and bolt is tight.

STEP 1. CHARGE MAIN BATTERY In regards to charge times for the battery; to do this use the following formula:
As an example & to keep the math’s easy, I will use an example of a 1000mah battery and a 100mah charger. Just replace these numbers with the numbers written on your battery and charger.
In a perfect world where there was no loss (heat) you would just charge the battery for 10 hours (1000 divided by 100) however there are losses in charging of around 20% so in this example you would need to charge the battery for 10 hours x 1.2 to compensate for the losses equaling 12 hours.
This of course is only when the battery is dead flat.
For the rest of the time just charge the battery until it gets warm (not hot). Once the battery starts getting warm it is fully charged.
Just be careful not to overcharge the battery as it will damage the battery.
The light on the charger does not go off when the battery is charged – it lights up to show that the battery is connected.

STEP 2. INSTALL 8 X AA BATTERIES The transmitter needs to have 8 x AA batteries installed. If you turn the car on before switching on the transmitter, it may run away from you. You may use NiMh or NiCad in addition to alkaline batteries. Be sure to completely charge rechargeable batteries before installing.

STEP 3. STANDING YOUR ANTENNA UP Insert the antenna wire through the antenna mount of the car, through the antenna tube, then insert into tube mount. The antenna wire may be longer than the tubes, if so, DO NOT cut the wire. Let excess wire hang freely.

STEP 4. TURNING ON YOUR TRANSMITTER ALWAYS turn the transmitter first, followed by the receiver. *** Remember…. You should always turn the transmitter on FIRST and turn it off LAST.

STEP 5. CHECK FOR PROPER OPERATION OF SERVOS With the transmitter and receiver all turned on and with the car on a block with the wheels off the ground, make sure your steering, throttle and forward/reverse are working correctly. Make sure when you turn the wheel on the transmitter left, the wheels turn left, and then check the right side. When you pull the throttle trigger the wheels should turn forward and when you push the trigger back the brakes should be applied. If you push the trigger a second time the car should go in reverse.

STEP 6 CHECKING THE TRANSMITTER RANGE Before driving your car, always test the range, and or any radio interference of your radio system. To do a range check, do either of the following:
1. walk away from the car to equal the furthest distance you plan to drive your car with the transmitter and cars aerials fully extended, or:
2. With the models aerial fully extended and the transmitter aerial fully DOWN, walk away 5 metres from the model.
In either of these range checks, make sure all the servos operate correctly. Do not operate the car if you notice any radio problems or interference.
Every RC car, Boat, Plane & Helicopter manufacturer will not cover warranty repairs from radio failure as it is impossible to know whether a model crashed due to:
Radio failure
Radio interference
Low batteries
Battery failure from vibration
Transmitter aerial not screwed in correctly.
Transmitter aerial over tightened damaging connection inside transmitter OR
Operator error

Therefore, it is critical to always do a range check BEFORE operating any RC model.
Radio interference can be caused for many reasons. Some of these include other models transmitters on a similar frequency, a 2 way radio ie CB, Fire Brigade, Police etc, power lines, geographic interference etc… etc.. Always do a range check before operating the model. If you get interference, either move to a different area or wait until it stops.
Always be very careful not to let the batteries get low, this will cause the servos to start vibrating and will give a substantial reduction in range. In our race cars we always use Rechargeable batteries as they can output much more power than a conventional alkaline battery making the servos operate much faster. Alkaline will last much longer as they have a very low power output.
Rechargeable and conventional batteries can be purchased from supermarkets like Woolies and Coles.
Always ensure that the car is held off the ground so that the wheels can spin freely when first switching the car on.

STEP 7 – BREAK-IN PROCEDURES To begin break in procedures for your new engine, simply run 3 battery packs. Allow the engine to cool down completely between batteries. After the 1st run, check all the screws to make sure they are tight, especially the engine bolts. Model cars, planes, boats, helicopters etc… vibrate a lot and nuts and bolts will come loose due to the vibration. It is also a good idea to use Lock tight (available at hardware stores) Lock tight is like soft glue which helps keep nuts and bolts tight. Make it a regular habit to continuously check all the nuts and bolts. We always go over our race cars after every race.
After the 3rd battery pack, check the gap between the brass engine pinion and the nylon drive gear. This gap will widen as the car is run in. There should only be enough gap to accept a thin piece of paper between the 2 gears. If the gap is larger, undo the 2 motor mounts screws and slide the engine closer.
An easy way to get the gap perfectly correct is to slide 1-2 pieces of paper between the gears and then push the nylon drive onto the brass pinion gear with the paper in between the gears. To get the paper in, just push the car backwards and feed the paper in between the 2 gears.

STEP 8 – INSTALLING THE BODY CLIPS Align the holes in the body with the body mounts. Then install the pins through the holes in the mounts. You may adjust the height of the body by lowering the body clips.

STEP 9 – THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP OF ALL! Drive your RC car!! Have fun and drive safely. Show your model the same respect as you would driving your full size vehicle. Or if you don’t show your own vehicle any respect, then pretend that it’s your parents car! :0
Because there are electrical components on the car, it should not be run through water, wet grass, mud or anything else that may get water inside the electronics.
Do not drive the car when your radio is showing low battery voltage.
Do not drive your car at night, on public streets, or in large crowds.
Do not drive if the servos are slow or unresponsive, this usually means your batteries are low, replace with new ones.
Always use common sense when driving your RC car. Abusive driving will only result in poor performance and many broken parts.

Lithium batteries are constructed from 3 Volts Cells i.e.
1 Cell = 3 Volts Discharged, approx 4.2 Volts Charged
2 Cell = 6 Volts Discharged, approx 8.4 Volts Charged
3 Cell = 9 Volts Discharged, approx 12.6 Volts Charged
If you discharge the battery below 3 volts per cell it will damage the battery.
Most modern Brushless ESC’s do not have an on/off switch, you must unplug the battery after use
Make sure your battery charger is turned ON before plugging in the Li-Po battery.

Lithium batteries are the preferred power sources for most electric modellers today. They offer high discharge rates and a high energy storage/weight ratio. However, using them properly and charging them correctly is no trivial task. There are many things to consider before using lithium. But none is more important than safety.

1. Use only a charger approved for lithium batteries. The charger may be designed for Li-Ion or Li-Poly. Both batteries are charged in exactly the same. Some older cell phone chargers may charge the batteries .1 volt to low (4.1 vs 4.2), but that will not harm the battery. However, inexpensive lithium chargers are widely available and the use of cellphone chargers is highly discouraged.

2. Make certain that the correct cell count is set on your charger. Watch the charger very closely for the first few minutes to ensure that the correct cell count continues to be displayed. If you don't know how to do that, get a charger that you do know how or don't charge the batteries.

3. Use the Taps. Before you charge a new Lithium pack, check the voltage of each cell individually. Then do this after every tenth cycle there after. This is absolutely critical in that an unbalanced pack can explode while charging even if the correct cell count is chosen. If the cells are not within 0.1 volts of each other then charge each cell individually to 4.2 volts so that they are all equal. If after every discharge the pack is unbalanced you have a faulty cell and that pack must be replaced. Taps are provided on most new lithium packs. Taps give you the ability to check individual cell voltages and charge one cell at a time. Make sure and get the appropriate connector to go into your taps. Don't try to stick you volt meter probes in the taps to measure voltage. They could slip and short your cells. Don't try to charge more than one cell at a time from the taps. Unless you have an isolated ground charging system, you'll short your batteries out. Refer to your individual cell maker for tap pin-outs.

4. NEVER charge the batteries unattended. This is the number one reason for houses and cars being burned to a crisp by lithium fires.

5. Use a safe surface to charge your batteries on so that if they burst into flame no damage will occur. Vented fire safes, pyrex dishes with sand in the bottom, fireplaces, plant pots, are all good options.

6. DO NOT CHARGE AT MORE THAN 1C unless specifically authorized by the pack vendor. I have personally had a fire in my home because of violating this rule. Today's highest discharge batteries can supposedly be safely charged at greater than 1C, however so far in all cases doing so shortens the life of the pack. Better to buy 3 packs than to try to charge 1 pack 3 times quickly. This may change in the future but as of Winter 2005 1C is still the recommended charge rate.

7. DO NOT puncture the cell, ever. If a cell balloons quickly place it in a fire safe place, especially if you were charging it when it ballooned. After you have let the cell sit in the fire safe place for at least 2 hours. Discharge the cell/pack slowly. This can be done by wiring a flashlight bulb of appropriate voltage (higher is voltage is ok, lower voltage is no) up to your batteries connector type and attaching the bulb to the battery. Wait until the light is completely off, then throw the battery away.

8. If you crash with your lithium cells they may be damaged such that they are shorted inside. The cells may look just fine. If you crash in ANY way carefully remove the battery pack from the aircraft and watch it carefully for at least the next 20 min. Several fires have been caused by damaged cells being thrown in the car and then the cells catch fire later and destroys the car completely.

9. Charge your batteries in a open ventilated area. If a battery does rupture or explode hazardous fumes and material will spew from the battery.

10. Keep a bucket of sand nearby when you are flying or charging batteries. This is a cost effective way to extinguish fires. This is very cheap and absolutely necessary.

11. It can happen to you, do not think to yourself that “it won't happen to me” as soon as you do that it you'll be trying to rescue your kids from your burning house or car. I'm very serious about this. Now that we have covered that important topic let's move on to lighter matters:

WHAT ARE LITHIUM POLYMER BATTERIES? Lithium Polymer batteries are used in many electronic devices. Cell Phone, Laptops, PDA's, Hearing Aids just to name a few. Most, if not all, lithium polymer batteries are not designed for RC use, we use them in different applications than they were designed for. They are similar to Lithium Ion batteries in that they each have a nominal voltage of 3.6 volts, but dissimilar in that they do not have a hard metal casing but rather a flexible material encloses the chemicals inside. The "normal" lithium polymer batteries are thin rectangle shapes with two tabs on the top one positive one negative. The reason we use Lithium cells is that they are significantly lighter than comparable NiCad or NiMH batteries, which makes our planes fly longer and better.

LiPolys behave differently than NiCad or NiMH batteries when charging and discharging. Lithium batteries are fully charged when each cell has a voltage of 4.2 volts. They are fully discharged when each cell has a voltage of 3.0 volts. It is important not to exceed both the high voltage of 4.2 volts and the low voltage of 3.0 volts. Exceeding these limits an harm the battery.

The way to ensure that you do not go below 3.0 volts while flying is to set the low voltage cutoff (LVC) of your electronic speed control (ESC). It important to use a programmable ESC since the correct voltage cutoff is critical to the life of your batteries. Use the ESC's programming mode to set the LVC to 3.0 volts per cell with a hard cutoff, or 3.3 volts per cell with a soft cutoff. If your ESC does not have hard or soft cutoff, use 3.0 volts per cell. You will know when flying that it is time to land when you experience a sudden drop in power caused by the LVC.
If your ESC has an automatic lithium mode. Use it, it will correctly sense the number of cells and set the auto cutoff appropriately.

If you have previously been flying with NiCad or NiMH batteries, switching over to lithium polymer will result in a different number of cells being used. If you had 6 to 7 round cells then 2 lithium polymer cells will correctly duplicate the voltage of those cells. If you had 10-11 cells then 3 lithium polymer cells would be right for you. There are a lot of 8 cell flyer's out there that are stuck between 2 and 3 cells. In my experience the best option is to determine how many watts you were using before and duplicate that with your LiPos, Motor, and Prop. For example. If you were running 8 cells (9.6volts) at 10 amps on a speed 400 airplane, then you have 9.6 x10, 96 watts. So if you went with 2 lithium polymer cells (7.2 volts nominal) then you'd need to change your prop such that you used 13 amps. If you went to 3 LiPoly's (10.8 volts nominal) then you'd need to reduce the amperage to 8.9 amps. These estimates are approximate, and some experimentation is required for best results but conserving Watts is a good way to start.

With so many choices out there it is difficult to decipher what is marketing hype, what is brand loyalty, and what is outright lies. Battery manufacturers are constantly trying to one up one another. While capitalism can drive prices down, it also can give cause to false claims about products.

One great way to find out what the best battery is to look at graphs of the batteries performance. Looking at how low the voltage of the cell drops at various amperages will give you a metric to compare that battery to similar size/weight batteries.

If graphs aren't your thing then simply look at what other people are using in successful setups that are similar to your application. If a lot of people are reporting long flight times and lots of power from airplane X, with power system Y, and battery Z and you do the same, then if your setup is similar the same battery will probably work well for you. It pays to learn something about Watts, Volts, and Amps. Understanding these concepts is beyond the scope of this document, but can serve you well in not only figuring out what battery is best but also in your electric aircraft hobby.

I'm not convinced that a 30C battery is really any better than a 10 or 20C battery. Sure a higher C rating means it can discharge faster. But at the same time a battery discharged at 20C continuously will be empty in 3 minutes. Do you really only want to use the battery for 3 minutes? I love having burst power in helicopters and boats, but in almost all other applications actually running a battery at or above 20C is useless to me. I prefer to run batteries at 8-10 C and have a little headroom if I need it.

A final note on choosing a battery. Don't cheap out. Confirm that your batteries are capable of running that the amperage level you plan to use them at. Running a cell at a higher C rating than the battery can handle can not only damage your batteries, but it can also damage your speed control. Castle Creations has an excellent article on how using a weak battery can destroy a perfectly good speed control of any brand. Better to buy a bit better battery than you need than to destroy your electronics.

Lithium batteries like heat, but not too much. In the winter time, try to keep your batteries from the cold as much as possible. Leave them in the car while your flying, or keep them in your cargo pants... etc. At the same time don't let them heat up too much. Try to keep your batteries from reaching 160F after use. This will prolong the life of the cells. A good way to measure temperature is a handheld IR meter, they can be found for around $50.00 at most hobby shops.

You can only use a higher voltage battery on brushless vehicles but not on the brushed ones - these need to use the 7.2 volt batteries only.

It sounds like the battery in the car is low. The electronic speed controller will automatically cut power to the engine if the battery falls below 7 volts. Please note a standard 7.2 volt NiMh battery will show a voltage of 8.6 volts when fully charged.
Please make sure the battery is fully charged. A fully discharged 7.2 volt 2000 mah NiMh battery requires 11 hours charging with the included 250 mah charger. Are you able to measure the voltage of the car battery with the car running using a multimeter? The battery should show > 7 volts when plugged into the car with the engine running and the wheels of the ground i.e car sitting on block of wood or similar To measure the battery voltage, slide the multimeter probes around the wires on back of the the plug, there is just enough room to do this.

Also, if you can, could you check to see if any of the following plugs have come loose in transit.
Steering servo plug (where the Steering servo plugs into the receiver)
ESC (Elecronic Speed Control) plug (where the ESC plugs into the receiver)
ESC to Engine plugs
Switch to receiver
Please note all 3 receiver plugs are plugged in with the black wire to the outside of the receiver. ESC to Motor plug
Crystals, there are 2 crystals, one on the transmitter (it will say 27xxx mhz and there is one on the receiver.

Yes we will certainly cover this under warranty for you.
What is your address and the part number of the motor and Electronic Speed Control (ESC) and we will send you replacements out now. All of the part numbers are in the back of the instruction manual.
When you receive the replacements, please post the defective parts back to us as we need to return this to the manufacturer to claim replacement. Please include a note in the package that the parts are returned faulty under warranty.

If the car is making a beeping sound and or the LED on the electronic speed control is flashing, but the car is not responding to the throttle, turn the throttle trim on the transmitter until the beeping stops.
The ESC's in the latest cars automatically reset when you switch the car off - you don't have to do it manually.

I just would like to ask please, what sort of battery is being used? Is the ESC being allowed to cool between battery packs? Does the ESC have adequate ventilation?
Gears not meshed correctly, noisy or tight engine, or snapping engine shafts.
It sounds like the spacing in between the brass engine pinion (gear) and the black main nylon gear may need adjusting. To do this, loosen the 2 engine bolts and slide 2 pieces of paper between the gears, push the engine close then tighten. Be careful to make the engine bolts firm but do not over tighten.
Now remove the paper.
We also recommend using Loctite to keep the bolts tight.

It sounds like one of the gears might be broken in the diff.
We will certainly cover this under warranty for you.
What is your address and the part number of the faulty part and we will send you a replacement out now.
All of the part numbers should be in the back of the instruction manual.
When you receive the replacement, please post the defective part back to us as we need to return this to the manufacturer to claim replacement. Please include a note in the package that the parts are returned faulty under warranty.

The only thing we can suggest is that you check the alignment of the main gear and the motor. Sometimes if these are jammed too close together they will make a grinding noise.

Excessive engine heat and or smoke from the motor is usually caused by the motor running with too much load. This can be caused by too much resistance on the car i.e long grass, hot ambient temperature, over gearing, dirt in the engine etc.
If there is dirt in the engine, just remove the bell housing and clean it out with compressed air and / or methylated spirits.

It takes approx 8 hours to charge the battery and we also have fast chargers which take less than 1 hour.

You can put a 11.1 Lipo battery into any brushless electric car and you will not need to replace the esc. You just need to put the Lipo battery into the car with no further changes.

The time a battery will last can vary between 5 -10 minutes per 1800mah battery. The times depends on how it is driven and the surface it is driven on. Flat hard surfaces like bitumen create the least friction where as long grass creates the most.
The car is designed to last for the international standard for electric car racing, that is races are always held for a 5 minute duration on the world circuit.
You can increase the times by using a battery with a higher capacity. Batteries come with a capacity up to 5000mah, however around the 4000mah is the most economical.

Only the older style brushed 2 wire motors use the "turns" to rate power output.
The newer 3 phase, 3 wire Brushless motors are rated in KV (rotaions per volt) as well output in Watts.
It's hard to do a direct comparison because the torque band is so different between the two technologies but for modern motors here is a good ballpark formula: Take the rating of brushless times 1.4 to get the roughly equal brushed equivalent (double-wind).

6.5x1.4=9.1 a 6.5 brushless is approximately equal to a 9T brushed 10.5x1.4=14.7 a 10.5 brushless is approximately equal to a 15T brushed 27T Brushed = 17.5 Brushless (Stock Spec) 19T Brushed = 13.5 Brushless (Pro Stock Spec) Under 19T Brushed = Under 13.5 Brushless (Mod)

The Rock Crawler has locked diffs. This means that if a wheel is off the ground this will turn at the same speed as the one on the ground.

The maximum speed of the Rock Crawler is 10 kph.
“Should I buy a Mode 1 or Mode 2 transmitter?” In the US, the vast majority of pilots fly on Mode 2 and in Australia it is Mode 1, but just what does that mean?
A Mode 2 RC transmitter controls the aileron (roll) and elevator (pitch) with the right hand, while the rudder (yaw) and throttle are controlled by the pilot’s left hand. Mode 1 moves the throttle function to the right stick and the elevator control to the left stick. This separates the primary controls so that there is less accidental “mix” when moving one control or the other, as is common with Mode 2.
The Mode 1 pilot will be controlling the throttle and aileron with his right hand. The rudder and elevator will be controlled by the left hand.

An electronic speed control or ESC is a device mounted onboard an electrically powered radio control model in order to vary its drive motor's speed, its direction and even to act asa dynamic brake in certain controllers.
An ESC can be a stand-alone unit which plugs into the receiver's throttle control channel or incorporated into the receiver itself, as is the case in most toy-grade R/C vehicles. Some R/C manufacturers that install proprietary hobby-grade electronics in their entry-level vehicles, vessels or aircraft use onboard electronics that combine the two on a single circuit board.
Regardless of the type used, an ESC interprets control information not as mechanical motion as would be the case of a servo, but rather in a way that varies the switching rate of a network of field effect transistors, or "FET's." The rapid switching of the transistors is what causes the motor itself to emit its characteristic high-pitched whine, especially noticeable at lower speeds. It also allows much smoother and more precise variation of motor speed in a far more efficient manner than the mechanical type with a resistive coil and moving arm once in common use.
Most modern ESCs incorporate a battery eliminator circuit (or BEC) to regulate voltage for the receiver, removing the need for extra batteries. ESCs are normally rated according to maximum current, for example, 25 amperes or 25A. Generally the higher the rating, the larger and heavier the ESC tends to be which is a factor when calculating mass and balance in airplanes. Many modern ESCs support nickel metal hydride and lithium ion polymer batteries with a range of input and cut-off voltages. The type of battery and number of cells connected is an important consideration when choosing a BEC, whether built into the controller or as a stand-alone unit. A higher number of cells connected will result in a reduced power rating and therefore a lower number of servos supported by an integrated BEC.
DC ESCs in the broader sense are PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) controllers for electric motors. The ESC generally accepts a nominal 50Hz PWM servo input signal whose pulse width varies from 1ms to 2ms. When supplied with a 1ms width pulse at 50Hz the ESC responds by turning off the DC motor attached to its output. A 1.5ms pulse-width input signal results in a 50% duty cycle output signal that drives the motor at approximately half-speed. When presented with a 2.0ms input signal the motor runs at full speed due to the 100% duty cycle (on constantly) output.

Please make sure your radar gun is capable of picking up a 1/10 scale car. Most radar guns won't because the metal reflective surface of a 1/10 scale car is far to small. We use a GPS transponder to calculate speeds.
Also make sure you are doing the following,
Use 25-30% Nitro fuel for max power
Use a matched glow plug for the fuel
Make sure the mixture is set to moments ambient conditions
Ensure head temperature when running of 115 degree + - 5 degrees
Make sure the gear spacing between the clutch bell and the main gear has been adjusted with a gap of 2 pieces of paper.

The best way to test if the car is getting into second gear is to run the car on flat bitumen with the mixture tuned for the day. Please note it can sometimes be very hard to hear the gear change as it is not like a full size car or motor bike. The gear doesn't change as such, the second gear is continually spinning and enabled by a pin which comes out under centrifugal force. It is very unusual for the second gear not to work.
Most times if the second gear is not enabling it is just because the car has not been able to get up enough speed for the centrifugal force to come in to play. This is normally caused by either the engine not run in, the mixture not set correctly or the surface being too rough or restrictive for the car to get up enough speed. Running the car on grass is like running a real car through a cane field.
Another reason the second gear may not be engaging is the engine may be now located too far away from the gearbox. Remember as per the instructions the engine needs to be adjusted during the run in after the first tank of fuel and then re-checked as the car is run in.

You need to set these for what ever track you are racing on. You can adjust the shock absorbers and make them harder for a faster track.
With the rear wing, adjusting this in a windy condition can run more down force, however this will also reduce the top end speed. Bottom line is, it comes down to adjusting to the track conditions.

To adjust the brakes just wind in the black plastic knurled screw in brake lever rod. This is the rod from the accelerator servo. It is also the same rod which controls the throttle of the engine.
By winding the knurled knob in, it will make the brakes engage earlier.

We are certainly happy to replace the carburettor under warranty; however could you just check that the servo is working correctly before we do this by disconnecting the throttle arm from the carburettor and checking it.
If this is not the problem then we will certainly cover this under warranty for you. What is your address and the part number of the faulty part and we will send you a replacement out now. All of the part numbers should be in the back of the instruction manual.
When you receive the replacement, please post the defective part back to us as we need to return this to the manufacturer to claim replacement. Please include a note in the package that the parts are returned faulty under warranty.

Most manufacturers of these cars recommend 15% nitro fuel; however if the manufacturer's information advises higher then you could us this. The only problem here is that the higher the percentage the harder it is to adjust the tuning for the car.

In regards to the glow plug, it sounds like the glow plug could have burnt out, try replacing the glow plug and see if it fixes the problem. Also, make sure the glow plug igniter is fully charged.
The symptom for a blown glow plug is the stalling of the engine when the glow plug igniter is removed. Glow plugs are consumables like the fuel and it is not unusual to go through a couple a glow plugs in one race meet; however there are 3 things you can do to maximise a glow plug's life.

1. Make sure the mixture is not set too lean, this will very quickly burn the fine filament in the glow plug. The mixture must be adjusted through the day for the days changing ambient conditions.
2. Make sure you never leave the battery connected to the glow plug for more than 10 seconds after starting as this will quickly burn it out.
3. Don't leave the glow plug connected for too long while starting the engine, the hotter the glow plug gets, the quicker it will burn out. You can manually check the condition of a glow plug with a magnifying glass and a small torch. When the glow plug is new, all of the coils will be very similar, when it is worn, you will see come of the coils a no longer perfectly coiled but instead unsymetrical and distorted. You can also see the colour of the coils, this show how well the mixture is set. The coils should be a grey to white colour, to white means to lean. Please note if you remove the glow plug and plug it into the igniter, it will still glow even when worn out.

If the engine is not starting and the glow plug is dry, this means the engine requires more priming. To prime the engine, put your finger over the end of the exhaust pipe and pull the engine over 3-4 times until you can see fuel entering the carburetor. You will need to remove the foam from the aircleaner to see inside the carburetor. If the engine suddenly becomes very hard to pull over, this means the engine has been primed too much and is now flooded. Do not pull hard as this will break the pull start. Just remove the glow plug and pull over a few times to remove the excess fuel.

Nitro / Nitro Fuel / Glow Fuel / Hobby Fuel all generally have the same meaning in the land of Remote Control vehicles. Generally the same (or similar to one another) nitro fuel can be used in model airplanes, helicopters, car and boats.
Nitro fuel can be used by very simple 2 stroke model engines or by more complicated 4 stroke model engines, and these engines can generate very impressive amount of power for their small size.
One of the more popular brands of nitro fuels is Morgan’s Cool Power. It is usually sold in 4 litre containers for approx. $50 from most hobby stores.
Nitro fuel is generally of mixture of methanol, nitromethane and oil.
Methanol is usually the primary ingredient, as it provides the bulk of the fuel and is also needed as a solvent for the other ingredients. It is also needed for the glow plug generally found in model engines to burn via a catalytic reaction to keep the ignition going between strokes.
Nitromethane is generally added to the methanol to increase power and make the engine easier to tune. Typically nitro fuel is about 0 – 30% nitromethane, with higher percentages generally giving better performance but costing more (as nitromethane is considerably more expensive than methanol), but requires less oxygen to burn (approx. 50% less oxygen). So more of it can be put into an engine during each stoke and this results in higher power output.
Most model engines require oil to be included (either castor oil or a synthetic blend) with the fuel as a lubricant (as it’s not provided by the engine itself) and so many model engine fuels are typically 8 – 22% oil. The oil in nitro fuel is generally not burned by the engine, and is expelled out of the exhaust during operation. This helps the engine dissipate heat, as the oil emitted is generally hot.
Glow plug engines generally have to run slightly rich (with a higher fuel:air ratio than is ideal) to keep the engine cool (as the fuel going out the exhaust also take heat with it) and so the vehicles with glow plug engines get coated with lots of oil. Therefore some cleaning is required when you are finished using your vehicle.

Local hobby stores will often carry a variety of nitro fuel mixes to cater for the variety in engine block sizes, and performance characteristics that customers want. Customers may be looking for a mix that provides hig